Do not use a high pressure washer on your shock. Inspect entire exterior of shock for damage. The shock should not be used if any of the exterior parts appear to be damaged. Check that quick-release levers or thru-axle pinch bolts are properly adjusted and tightened. Check headset adjustment. BRAIN Technology senses bumps in the trail and activates the suspension giving the rider the efficiency of a hardtail with all the benefits of a full suspension bicycle.
Tuning the spring rate Force required to compress a spring one inch. The method for setting sag on a BRAIN-equipped bicycle is slightly different than that used for traditional shocks:.
Sit on the bicycle in a normal riding position. It is best to wear normal riding gear, and remain steady and still in this position for ten 10 seconds. Dismount the bicycle and measure the distance between the scraper lip and travel indicator o-ring.
Adjust air pressure in 5-psi increments until the recommended sag of 10mm is achieved. I have a bad feeling they are. Seals are all made by NOK but have very odd size markings. Some revisions provide a bleed port for vacuum bleeding, the Sworks shock doesn't have a bleed port, I'm yet to work out how to bleed. Last edited: Apr 23, Ivan Eats Squid. Top work. Any thoughts on modifying the brain?
Yep, thinking of adding adjustable preload to the spring and a Schrader valve so I can recharge with air for testing. Ivan said:. I had assumed that is what the adjuster did, adjust the preload on the spring. I'll have to go and look at some pictures to figure out whats actually going on. Last edited: Jun 8, SummitFever Eats Squid. SummitFever said:. Any idea who makes the for Speci? Doesn't look like a fox shock. Earlier brain shocks made by Fox have to be assembled in a 2l ice container full of shock oil to solve the bleed problem.
It was fox. I've drawings with Fox's logo on them. I guess shesh wanted to differentiate and didn't use Fox's aesthetics. The original brain with the inertial assembly threaded into the main housing was a bucket bleed job, possibly the older remote reservoirs, like this example, are too.
It will be fun working it out. Progress update. Dowel pins ordered for making a tool to unthread the reservoir piston head. My local Specialized shop tells me that the only way to get the fork rebuilt is to have the shop send it to Specialized for their elite mechanics to service it. Has anyone tried servicing these Brain systems on their on?
Any resources to point to? Or is it just a hopeless endeavor and I'll forever be tied to swallowing my pride and paying for someone else to work on my bike? I've serviced the brain on my sworks stumpy several times over the past few years, mostly because of the crummy turnaround times from spesh, and the fact that it never makes it through more than half a season before losing lockout etc.
And the fact that I'm a mechanical engineer and stupidly tear into anything that breaks thinking I can handle it half the time I can't. I have to admit it took me about a year to get good at rebuilding it, the critical thing is you have to make sure there are absolutely NO air bubbles in the system when you refill it.
Air bubbles getting into the hydraulic fluid seems to be what makes them fail. There are a few threads out there that are helpful, and there's a rockshox monarch repair video that's similar enough to give you some good ideas.
There are also schematics available on the net that are a huge help and also tell you what size o-rings etc you'll need and make sure you replace them every time, at the least the standard ones which are easy to get from the internet or in my case my friendly neighbourhood hydraulic component shop , they're cheap and if you don't you have a good chance of failure.
Note that some of them are Vitron teflon impregnated , unless you have absolutely no choice replace vitron with vitron of the same color durometer. I had the schematics saved somewhere but haven't found them yet, that's how I ended up here, I'll try to remember to check back once I find them, and if anyone wants let me know and I'll pass them on. I don't bother with nitrogen, I think the main reason they use it is the convenience of a high pressure cylinder of nitrogen versus using a hand pump or a high pressure compressor you want to charge the brain side to psi.
Some shocks do just use air. I put a schraeder valve on my brain and use a suspension pump to fill it, I can get about psi into it. If you wanted nitrogen you could probably go to a motorcycle service shop and get them to charge the system for you. To refill it I have used Fox fluid, but it's just rebranded motorcycle fork fluid marked up about five times as much. I've used Belray motorcycle fork fluid with success It's available in a variety of weights so you can experiment a bit, I think I used 7 wt.
I've also tried transmission fluid at someones suggestion, it works fine but smells terrible, I doubt I'll use it again. Whatever you use you need a lot because you need to have a bath of it you can fully emerge the whole system in while you reassemble to make sure you don't get bubbles, for me I need about a gallon minimum.
There's probably no reason to take apart the shim stack, but if you do be very careful and methodical, take your time and take LOTs of pictures. If you dont get it back together exactly the way it was it probably won't work, and I've only found shim stack diagrams for one or two models of brain. If you want to do it the "professional" way, you would need some quite specialist equipment to fill the brain unit with oil and nitrogen properly. However I have heard of people doing it on their own.
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