But ultimately there needs to be enough clearance to mount the speaker between the studs. Identify Your Wire Paths Before you take saw to drywall, plan out your wire runs. Drill a small 0. If everything looks cool, you can start carving the full speaker cutout.
Use the template that came with the speaker, align and mark the cutout lightly with a pencil, and have at it. You can also use this opportunity to send a fiberglass push rod or snake down or up to make sure your wires will make it all the way to the top or bottom plate without running into blocking or other obstructions. Cut this exploratory rectangle with beveled edges, with the point of the blade pointing toward the center of the speaker location as you move around.
If you need to change your speaker location, the piece you cut out will fit into the hole like a lid and make for easier drywall repair. Running the Speaker Wires There are four choices for installing speaker wires.
As mentioned, you can run them overhead through an attic space or beneath the floor if you have a basement or crawl space. But you can also remove the baseboards, cut a channel into the drywall with a utility knife, run the wires, and then replace the baseboards. The drywall holes only need to be 1 inch high and wide enough to expose the stud.
Typically, or gauge wire works well for most installations up to feet. Beyond that, use or gauge wire, which is larger in diameter. Installing the Speakers If you want to paint the frames and grilles to match the walls, do so before you install them. Always use spray paint or a sprayer and mask the speaker components.
Most in-wall speakers use four or six dog-leg clamps to secure the speaker to the wall. Some are two-piece designs, so the frame attaches separately to the wall with clamps, and the speaker locks or screws into the frame later. Consider installing insul-ation R in the wall cavity behind the speakers to improve sound quality. Submitted by andyloso on December 8, - am Hi, I am finishing my basement into a home theater and installing Paradigm AMS series inwall speakers.
I would like to know if I should build back boxes into the wall cavity to improve sound quality. Your local Paradigm dealer can get you back boxes for certain AMS models. Good in- walls are especially well-suited for use as surround speakers.
If speakers flanking the seating area of a theater can be moved off the floor and into the walls , the possibility of a wine-induced mishap is greatly reduced. To obtain a good stereo effect, place the left and right speakers an equal distance from your prime listening seat, at ear level while seated. Aim them directly towards you for the best sound.
Generally speaking, ceiling speakers are best for multi-room music systems. In- wall speakers are ideal for space-saving surround sound. Consider installing some insulation R in the wall cavity behind the speakers to improve sound quality.
The width of the insulation is usually pre-cut, so you only need to cut it to length and insert it in the opening behind the speakers. When buying a direct-to-stud surround, make sure that you get the right size for the width of the tub or shower you have. This type of surround can't be trimmed to fit in the same way that is possible with adhesive-type surrounds.
Unless the studs are already exposed, installation starts by stripping the walls down to the studs around where the surround will sit. This is demolition work that may require a pry bar and reciprocating saw, depending on what type of wall surface is present. Often, it is best to cut out an area of the wall slightly larger than the surround, because this makes it easier to anchor the flanges to the studs.
After installation, you can then install drywall so it butts up to the surround over the nailing flanges. When removing drywall, make sure to remove all nails or screws, and check to make sure the studs lie in a flat plane. If necessary, you may need to shim out the studs if they are uneven or bowed.
This ensures that the surround panels will lie flat against the walls. Make sure the installation is done according to the manufacturer's instructions. If an adhesive or silicone sealant is also required on the wall, then be sure to follow this procedure.
Install the back wall panel first. Some kits have one back panel; others have two. Position the back surround panel on the tub and level it. Have someone help hold it in place while you check to see how it fits against the walls and the edge of the tub or shower base. Once the panel is oriented properly, drill pilot holes through the top, bottom, and side flanges where the panel meets the center of the studs, and use nails or screws to secure it to the wall.
Short roofing nails with large heads work well for this. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for the nailing interval. Install the side wall without plumbing fixtures on it. This side is done first because no holes are required and it is easy to install. Position the panel against the side wall, and lock it in place where it adjoins the back panel.
Level the panel and make sure it sits flush against the lip of the tub or shower pan. Drill pilot holes in the panel flanges where they meet the studs, and screw or nail the panel to the wall. Some kits have two side wall panels. If so, install the remaining panel before turning to the front wall panel. The final panel is the one containing the plumbing fixtures; this is usually the front wall of the shower.
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